Podcast

When tranexamic acid started gaining popularity a few years back, it felt similar to CBD. Suddenly it seemed like every brand was using it, but there didn’t seem to be a lot of data shared on its effectiveness. In this episode, the chemists share the benefits that tranexamic acid can bring to skin, go through the testing (if any), and discuss whether or not it’s a worthy addition to your skincare routine. 4:05 | What is Tranexamic Acid? 11:53 | What Does Tranexamic Acid Do For Skin? 27:16 | H...

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Because of the limitations of azelaic acid, it only makes sense that azelaic acid derviative, potassium azeloyl diglycinate is on the rise! We dive into whether or not this is a good replacement for azelaic acid, what are its actual benefits, and how to use PAD in your skincare routine! 1:21 | What is azelaic acid derivative, potassium azeloyl diglycinate (PAD)? 7:58 | What does PAD do for skin? 28:55 | How to use PAD in your skincare routine

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The chemists don’t talk about this ingredient as much as they probably should but azelaic acid has a solid amount of data behind it…at the prescription level 15-20% concentration. Naturally, you have to wonder if the 10% azelaic acid products you can purchase as a cosmetic would actually do anything for skin? They dissect the benefits of azelaic acid, discuss the formulation challenges behind this active, and ultimately how they would use a 10% azelaic acid product in their routine. 1:37 | Wh...

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The chemists are gearing up for their 30 for 30 sunscreen challenge test! So naturally this is a great time to check up on some of the latest studies on sunscreens. We cover a large survey study on people’s sunscreen application habits (spoiler alert: it’s not great), an oil based vs water based cleanser study on sunscreen removal, a new J&J SPF50 vs SPF100 study, and an update on the ongoing studies on sunscreen’s impact on coral reef. 1:33 | Survey of 2000+ people and their sunscreen applic...

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We’re back in the realm of plant extracts in skincare! This is a realm where real clinical data is quite sparse. So even simple questions like “does this extract work?” can be difficult to answer. In this episode, we discuss 3 plant ingredients with just enough interesting testing data for us to say “this is worth trying”.2:10 | Bisabolol - soothing powerhouse derived from German chamomile7:45 | Turmeric extract and their surprising benefit for those with oily skin23:40 | Boswellia Serrata (I...

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We’ve dedicated many episodes to Vitamin C, but there’s still more to cover! Recently, there have been a lot of Vitamin C launches and they are specifically for tackling hyperpigmentation. What makes this arena slightly confusing is that many of these products use Vitamin C derivatives. But, how helpful is Vitamin C in helping to tackle this very stubborn skin concern? And which Vitamin C molecule is best? We discuss all this and more. It’s time to go down the rabbit hole again!

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We’ve encountered many skincare users who have discovered that the Vitamin C realm is just not their cup of tea and neither is it for their skin. Enter resveratrol! We discuss what resveratrol is, its antioxidant capabilities, and why despite the amount of data, we consider this a solid option as a non-Vitamin C antioxidant replacement. You’ve been warned, we get nerdy here, but lets go down the rabbit hole shall we?

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There’s a lot of rice-based ingredients and rice-adjacent ingredients in skincare. They can span from functional ingredients such as waxes and thickeners to exotic actives like the very famous Pitera. Amongst all of these ingredients, there’s one isolated active compound that we believe deserves some attention and that is kojic acid. This ingredient is a byproduct of the sake fermentation process and happens to have some solid data as a hyperpigmentation-fighting active. So let’s dive in! 1:2...

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Centella Asiatica (aka cica) has continued to reign as a trendy plant-based active. For good reason! With origins as a wound healing ingredient, the research behind centella asiatica as a skincare ingredient has really grown. We go through the research update and talk about its benefits as a skin soother and possible anti-aging ingredient. Finally, we walk through how to shop for centella asiatica and ultimately how to hunt for the good stuff: madecassoside & asiaticoside.

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In the world of AHAs, mandelic acid feels like that forgotten child. We always talk about the golden child, glycolic acid, as well as the more gentle exfoliator, lactic acid. So when would a person need mandelic acid in their life? We go through the data and discuss who it’s good for, how much you should be using, and how to shop for this unique AHA. 1:26 | What is Mandelic Acid? 5:43 | How does Mandelic Acid Compare to Other AHAs? 26:39 | How to Shop for Mandelic Acid

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