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LÉ Blog

Madecassoside - the real hero in Centella Asiatica "Cica" Skincare

Centella asiatica (a.k.a. All things “cica” in skinare) is a popular skincare ingredient that touts soothing benefits. You might be wondering what sets centella apart when it seems like every plant extract you hear about in skincare touts “soothing”, “anti-inflammatory (a big no-no since this is a drug claim but it’s out there)”, and “antioxidant” benefits. But hear it from the chemists! – very few of these ingredients actually have clinical evidence proving that they work in skincare. From t...

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Results Summary for our 2023 30-for-30 Sunscreen Challenge

In celebration of summer, we decided to test 30 different sunscreens over 30 days to see how these applied, how they held up over time, and even how they wash off. Please head to our TikTok and Instagram channel if you want to see the visuals. Otherwise here’s the running list of sunscreens we’ve tried, our rating, and why: *To help readers learn more about products showcased in this challenge, we built out and organized these results in Shop My Shelf. We do receive a small commission for usi...

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Which Vitamin C Derivative is the Best For My Skin?

We have talked about the science behind vitamin C skincare, we have even tested a bunch of CE Ferulic dupes - yet there’s still more for us to cover in the vitamin C serum landscape. Vitamin C is actually a whole family of related molecules that all behave slightly differently. The OG vitamin C with the glitzy skin benefits that you often hear of is L-ascorbic acid. But since ascorbic acid is notoriously unstable in the presence of light, water, and air, many have turned to derivative compoun...

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Your Cleansing Questions Answered: Any Scientific Takeaways Here?

In this blog post: How helpful are acne cleansers? Is there such thing as over-washing? Cleanser Formulation for Dry Skin Cleanser Impact on Rosacea Why Personal Cleanser Preference is Valid Chemists' Skin Type & Cleanser Preferences Takeaways References It would be nice if there was some scientific formula that could tell us what cleanser would best suit our skin. Most of us have spent a fair part of our adult (and young adult) lives jumping from one brand to another, hoping to find the magi...

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Mandelic Acid - Should You Choose It Over Salicylic Acid or Glycolic Acid?

AHAs (alpha hydroxy acids) such as glycolic and lactic acid have long enjoyed the spotlight - and for good reason! These are your proven chemical exfoliants essential to most anti-aging, hyperpigmentation skin routines. Beyond these two, there are plenty of “new age” AHAs that get touted for similar skin benefits, and one of the newer kids on the block we want to shine a spotlight on is mandelic acid. As chemists, we always have to look at the available clinical evidence on these newer ingred...

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Hyaluronic Acid - Which type is the best for my skin?

Hyaluronic Acid is an oldie in skincare but seems to never be out of fashion. This elusive ingredient has been tied to so many different types of skincare benefits ranging from hydration claims to anti-anging claims. Add on the fact that hyaluronic acid serums also come with a wide range of price tags (think sub $10 to $400…?!) plus some concerns around HA causing skin dehydration and presto! Much confusion about hyaluronic acid! But, not to worry. In this guide, we’ll tackle what this ingred...

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Glycerin - Is it the BEST humectant hydrator for skin?

Is Glycerin Secretly the BEST hydrator for your skin? The world is never short of glitzy new ingredients that promise you your dewiest self. In the humectants category (water-loving ingredients that hydrate your skin), you may have heard of hyaluronic acid, snail mucin, or other exotic seaweed extracts. These ingredients usually come with impressive claims (ie. “holds up to 1000x its weight in water!”) or exotic origin stories with extra skin benefits (filled with 57819473 amino acids and min...

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Ceramides - What exactly do they do for skin?

“Skin barrier care” seems to be one of the top skincare trends in recent years, and ceramides are the ingredients that are often associated with this trend. But this has also created a lot of confusion around just what ceramides are and what do they really do for your skin topically. In this in-depth guide, we’ll discuss what they are, what ceramides do for skin topically, decipher the types of ceramides you might find in your products, which skin types can benefit from them, and how to shop ...

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Bakuchiol - A "Retinol Alternative" Worth Trying?

Good old anti-aging retinol promises so many benefits. Yet for many (Gloria included!), it’s a temperamental little guy that can wreak havoc on your carefully maintained skin barrier. This means there are always new, buzzy ingredients promising the same glitz and glam of retinol without the snake molting, angry skin onboarding phase. One of the hottest ingredients in this category is bakuchiol, often marketed as “plant-based retinol alternative”. So! What does the science say? Can it ACTUALLY...

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Retinal - Is it Better Than Retinol?

Retinaldehyde or retinal (with an A!) has become the latest, buzz-worthy retinoid on the market. Many seasoned retinoid users are honing in on the fact that in the process of retinoic acid synthesis, retinal would be the more efficient (aka more potent) cosmetic retinoid compared to retinol in getting those sweet anti-aging benefits. You might even hear retinal claims such as “10x more effective than retinol” or even “tretinoin strength without the tretinoin irritation.” Bold claims! While re...

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Retinol: The Tried-and-True Way to Putting Off Botox

Retinol has been a longtime fan favorite anti-aging molecule. And for good reason! As a cosmetic ingredient, retinol is one of the few that has decades of research and data behind its efficacy. In fact, this is why in our book, Skincare Decoded, we refer to this active as one the Big Four and stands alongside the champs, ascorbic acid, AHAs, and niacinamide. But, you’ve probably heard of the downside of retinol - flaking, shedding, redness, dryness. While it may sound intimidating, just a cou...

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