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vitamin c derivatives chemist confessions blog

Which Vitamin C Derivative is the Best For My Skin?

We have talked about the science behind vitamin C skincare, we have even tested a bunch of CE Ferulic dupes - yet there’s still more for us to cover in the vitamin C serum landscape. Vitamin C is actually a whole family of related molecules that all behave slightly differently. The OG vitamin C with the glitzy skin benefits that you often hear of is L-ascorbic acid. But since ascorbic acid is notoriously unstable in the presence of light, water, and air, many have turned to derivative compoun...

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Vitamin C: The Antioxidant Powerhouse

Vitamin C serums is probably one of the most popular products with countless new launches every year. Their lasting popularity make a lot of sense! Simply put, Vitamin C (specifically ascorbic acid) is one of the most validated actives in the skincare world for its clinical benefits. It has been proven to prevent free radical damage, brighten hyperpigmentation, and even boost collagen production. But given vitamin C’s popularity, it’s only gotten MORE difficult to choose the best vitamin C se...

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Everything you need to know about silymarin in skincare

There’s an ingredient that's probbbaaabbbly not quite on your skincare radar yet - but we think it’s worth considering. The ingredient is called Silymarin (sih-lee-mae-rin), and comes from the extract of milk thistle. You'll find it on the ingredient list as "Silybum Marianum Fruit Extract", usually in a handful of clinical brands such as Skinceuticals, PCA Skin, and Dr. Dennis Gross…. And most recently our very own Mr. Reliable 2.0! Silymarin is a potent antioxidant with anti-inflammatory pr...

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Actives Pairings With Clinical Testing Behind Them

*Updated as of 5/17/2022 When you start dabbling in actives, you’ll easily fall into the rabbit hole of what you can and can’t layer. One of the complicated aspects of trying to figure out actives layering and why brands may not even be able to give clear answers is simply the fact it hasn’t gone through enough testing to truly know. Not to mention, the formulas these actives sit in can add another layer of complexity. The good thing is there are some active combinations that have been looked...

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The Non-Vitamin C Antioxidants

The summer season is prime time to experiment with the category of antioxidants. All that extra sun means all that potential for photodamage. But all we’ve been talking about here have been very heavily Vitamin C focused, so what about all the other guys you hear about? The Chemist Have to Do Their Annual Rant But wait! What’s this? Another moment for the chemists to moan about the antioxidant category? The definition of antioxidant has truly been dragged through the mud because everything fr...

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Botanicals: A Skincare Ingredient Jungle

Our podcast episode 20 covered the troublesome world of botanicals… and why we chemists have a tough time talking about this group. But in case our silly humor and amateur podcast style isn’t your style (we’re working on it! promise!), we took to a blog article to highlight some of the ingredients we covered in the episode! Why Botanicals are a Difficult Topic First of all, there… are… just… so many botanicals. Hundreds of ingredients and each promising to be “so soothing, with so much antiox...

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