Podcast

We’ve dedicated many episodes to Vitamin C, but there’s still more to cover! Recently, there have been a lot of Vitamin C launches and they are specifically for tackling hyperpigmentation. What makes this arena slightly confusing is that many of these products use Vitamin C derivatives. But, how helpful is Vitamin C in helping to tackle this very stubborn skin concern? And which Vitamin C molecule is best? We discuss all this and more. It’s time to go down the rabbit hole again!

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We’ve encountered many skincare users who have discovered that the Vitamin C realm is just not their cup of tea and neither is it for their skin. Enter resveratrol! We discuss what resveratrol is, its antioxidant capabilities, and why despite the amount of data, we consider this a solid option as a non-Vitamin C antioxidant replacement. You’ve been warned, we get nerdy here, but lets go down the rabbit hole shall we?

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There’s a lot of rice-based ingredients and rice-adjacent ingredients in skincare. They can span from functional ingredients such as waxes and thickeners to exotic actives like the very famous Pitera. Amongst all of these ingredients, there’s one isolated active compound that we believe deserves some attention and that is kojic acid. This ingredient is a byproduct of the sake fermentation process and happens to have some solid data as a hyperpigmentation-fighting active. So let’s dive in! 1:2...

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Centella Asiatica (aka cica) has continued to reign as a trendy plant-based active. For good reason! With origins as a wound healing ingredient, the research behind centella asiatica as a skincare ingredient has really grown. We go through the research update and talk about its benefits as a skin soother and possible anti-aging ingredient. Finally, we walk through how to shop for centella asiatica and ultimately how to hunt for the good stuff: madecassoside & asiaticoside.

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In the world of AHAs, mandelic acid feels like that forgotten child. We always talk about the golden child, glycolic acid, as well as the more gentle exfoliator, lactic acid. So when would a person need mandelic acid in their life? We go through the data and discuss who it’s good for, how much you should be using, and how to shop for this unique AHA. 1:26 | What is Mandelic Acid? 5:43 | How does Mandelic Acid Compare to Other AHAs? 26:39 | How to Shop for Mandelic Acid

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Ginseng is definitely one of those alluring, almost magical ingredients that not only gets touted as a cure-all but almost as a skin cure-all as well. This root has been linked to a wide array of skincare benefits such as being an antioxidant, anti-inflammatory, and anti-aging. But is there any merit to these claims? We discuss the science and just how helpful ginseng can be to your skincare routine.

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Niacinamide is EVERYWHERE in the skincare world, and in some ways for good reasons. It’s a little jack-of-all-trades type of molecule that has actual clinical evidence that ranges from improving skin barrier function, reduce sebum production, and brighten hyperpigmentation. But the chemists have noticed in recent years that products now have more and more niacinamide. 10%, 15%, or even 30% niacinamde serums seem fairly easy to obtain. So in this episode, we review some of niacinamide’s most f...

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Urea has surprisingly been creeping up the ranks in skincare ingredient awareness. This oldie but a goodie has actually been looked at for some time and been compared to some of the greats like glycerin. Uniquely, urea at lower percentages serves as a hydration ingredient but at higher concentrations acts as a keratolytic similar to AHAs. So you have to wonder, can urea replace our AHAs?

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Glycerin is probably one of the first ingredients that chemists learn to work with in formulation. In fact, we happen to call this the Frank’s Red Hot of skincare because the industry really puts that sh** in everything! But despite its economical, functional status, this ingredient has really risen in the ranks in terms of trendy ingredients! In this episode, we review glycerin’s benefits and discuss whether or not glycerin deserves the title of best hydrating ingredient in skincare.

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It’s great to see awareness grow around maintaining skin barrier health. In caring for your skin barrier, ceramides would probably be the first ingredient that would be suggested. However, there are a lot of questions on who and what skin types should be using ceramides. Based on the data, are ceramides only good for those with compromised skin barriers? We dive into the research to see what the data says and how to use ceramide in your routine for your skin scenario! 1:09 | What are Ceramide...

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