You’ve got serums, moisturizers, and maybe even a trendy acid or two. But did you know that pretty much every product in your lineup does its best work when it’s got a clean canvas to start with? It might sound silly, but cleansing is often where things go sideways. For something we’ve been doing since childhood, figuring out when to use facial cleanser can be surprisingly tricky. Too much scrubbing can leave skin dry and cranky, while skipping or mistiming the step means your hardworking actives won’t absorb the way they should.
In true Chemist Confessions fashion, we’re breaking down the science behind washing your face. Whether your routine is two quick steps before bed or a full symphony of activities, this guide will walk you through when to use facial cleanser and how to make this step a true routine MVP.
Key Takeaways:
- Facial Cleanser As A Foundation: Cleansing is the essential first step in any skincare routine, clearing away dirt, oil, and residue so subsequent products can perform effectively.
- Avoid Over-Cleansing: Too much cleansing can damage the skin barrier, causing dryness, irritation, and breakouts. The key is finding balance and paying attention to your skin’s signals.
- Surfactants Matter: Surfactants are the cleansing agents that lift away oil and dirt, and the specific blend in your formula largely determines whether a facial cleanser feels gentle, stripping, or just right for your skin.
What Does Facial Cleanser Do?
Daily life can do a lot to your skin. Over the course of a day, excess oil, sweat, city smog, and germs from accidental face touching can all accumulate. Specifically, pollutants are a prime suspect that can potentially damage your skin. In a study that gauged skin aging in 400 caucasian women (age 70 to 80), it was observed that air pollution significantly increased signs of skin aging, like discoloration and fine lines.
So, what is a facial cleanser, and how does it come into the picture? Essentially, a gentle skin cleanser helps sweep all that dirt and grime away so your skin barrier can stay happy and your fancy schmancy serums and moisturizers can effectively do their jobs. That’s why it should ideally be the first step in your routine. Think of your cleanser as a show host, opening up the floor so everything else on your shelf can shine.
Morning vs. Night: When To Use Facial Cleanser
Cleansing routines look different for everyone, and that’s completely valid! Some prefer a minimalist approach, while others enjoy multi-step skincare as a daily self-care ritual. When you’re thinking about timing, it’s usually enough to cleanse once or twice a day:
- Morning Cleanse: Overnight, your skin naturally produces sebum and sweat, and oils from your pillow can transfer to your face. If you have dry skin, a simple rinse with water is often enough to refresh without stripping natural moisture. For oily, combination, or acne-prone skin, using a gentle gel facial cleanser in the morning can help remove excess sebum and reduce the risk of breakouts—leaving your skin prepped for moisturizer and SPF.
- Evening Cleanse: This is the big one. After a day of makeup, sunscreen, and maybe a little stress-induced face touching, cleansing at night helps clear away buildup that could otherwise lead to irritation.
Pssst…did you know? If you’re not sure where to start, our Best Sellers Bundle is like a ready-made facial cleanser pack. It kicks things off with Blank Slate, which is a low-pH skin cleanser that’s thorough but never stripping. Then, you can follow up with Aquafix Hydrating Water Gel for a hydration boost or finish with Mr. Reliable to lock it all in and nourish your barrier. Two steps (cleanser + moisturizer) are all you need for one solid foundational routine, and this trio forms a sensitive skin cleanser pack that’s suitable for all skin types.
Double Cleansing: Do You Need It?
If you spend hours in makeup, water-resistant sunscreen, or just spent a day in the city, double cleansing might be the best move. That means starting with an oil-based balm or cleanser to dissolve stubborn products, then following up with a classic water-based cleanser to finish the job. We get a lot of questions asking whether or not this is a must, and the short answer is not necessarily. We believe that a well-formulated oil cleanser should be able to leave you with a blank slate (no pun intended) without leaving residue, so doubling up is optional! But if you feel any lingering oiliness, double cleansing might help.
Finding The Right Cleanser Balance
The best facial cleansers for sensitive skin remove daily buildup without leaving your skin feeling tight or squeaky. If your face feels stripped after washing, that’s a red flag that your cleanser might be too harsh. On the flip side, if you notice makeup or sunscreen residue on your towel after patting dry, you might need a more thorough option.
Is Your Cleanser Too Stripping?
That “squeaky clean” sensation after washing is usually a sign your cleanser is a little too harsh. When trying something new, there’s no need to overhaul the rest of your routine; just swap the cleanser and see how your skin reacts over the next few days. It’s a good idea to make note of any new dry spots, redness, itchiness, or excessive oiliness.
As an added caveat, oily skin types might notice more shine when they first switch to a gentler cleanser. That doesn’t necessarily mean it’s the wrong product for you. Sometimes, your skin just needs a couple of days to recalibrate.
Does Your Cleanser Clean Enough?
The opposite problem is a cleanser that’s too mild, leaving behind excess sunscreen, makeup, or oils. It’s a tricky metric to measure at home, but here are two easy methods you can try out:
- Cotton Pad Check: After cleansing, use a cotton pad soaked with toner and swipe it all over your face to check for residue. You could also examine the towel you dry your face with.
- Makeup Smiley Test: Draw a tiny doodle on your hand with your favorite eyeliner or eyeshadow and put your cleanser to the test! If it has trouble removing it, you might need an extra step like a dedicated makeup remover.
Overall, a balanced cleanser should leave your skin rejuvenated, not squeaky or greasy. When you feel clean and moisturized after cleansing, that’s a good sign that you’re ready for the rest of your routine.
Why Surfactants Matter In Cleansers
Most cleansers are carefully balanced formulas, so you don’t need to decode every ingredient. But if you have sensitive skin, knowing about surfactants can help. These cleansing agents lift away oil and dirt, but harsh ones can also strip your skin’s natural lipids and proteins—leaving it tight or dry. Choosing a gentle surfactant system helps keep skin clean without overstripping.
What Surfactants Should I Pay Attention To?
There are tons of surfactants to choose from, so most facial cleansers use a blend. This balance helps determine whether a cleanser feels overly stripping or just right. For those of you trying to troubleshoot your cleanser, one strategy is to check the top five ingredients on the list. Familiarizing yourself with the top two or three surfactants your skin loves best can help you get a sense of what works and what to maybe stay away from.
Common Gentle Surfactants
There’s a vast library of surfactants out there to experiment with, but here are a few you’ll often see in cleansers that play nice with most skin types:
- Coco Betaine: A coconut oil-derived surfactant typically used as a foaming agent.
- Isethionates: Mild surfactants often found in the best facial cleansers for sensitive skin.
- Glucosides: Sugar-based surfactants that tend to feel very gentle and are common in low-pH formulas.
Many cleansers mix and match these categories, so don’t be surprised if you spot two or three in the same formula.
Signs You’re Over-Cleansing (And How To Fix It)
Even the most diligent cleansers can go a little overboard. If your skin starts feeling more stressed than refreshed, here are a few clues that it’s time to dial things back.
Cleanser Troubleshooting
While a bit more oiliness than you’re used to may just be part of the adjustment process, here are some warning signs to watch out for:
- Parched, Tight Skin: That overly tight sensation might feel satisfying in the moment, but it usually means your cleanser has stripped away too much. If your face feels mask-like post-wash, your barrier is craving moisture.
- Redness Or Stinging: Cleansers shouldn’t hurt! If they do, it’s time to change things up. Especially if you’ve recently added retinoids or acids, a gentler formula is your best bet.
- Rough Patches: If you’re spotting flakes or dry spots, it’s a sign your cleanser may be disrupting your skin’s natural shedding cycle. Look for options with barrier-friendly extras like glycerin, panthenol, or ceramides to add some post-wash conditioning.
- Sudden Breakouts: It sounds backwards, but over-cleansing can actually trigger blemishes. Stripping the skin barrier may prompt your oil glands to go into overdrive, leaving pores more prone to clogging.
How To Pump The Brakes
Noticing any of the above? Try these tweaks to get your skin back on track:
- Lower Your Frequency: Most skin types do well with cleansing once or twice a day. At night, a double cleanse is typically only needed if you’re removing long-wear makeup or SPF.
- Rethink Your Formula: If your cleanser foams up like a bubble bath, it might be doing too much. Try a low-foam, low-pH cleanser or one formulated with milder surfactants.
- Mind the Water Temp: Hot water can dry your skin out. Lukewarm is plenty effective (and usually much kinder).
- Listen To Your Skin: If your face is saying SOS, it’s okay to simplify your routine. Skipping the morning cleanse in favor of a simple water rinse may help your barrier catch up.
Learning when to use facial cleanser isn’t about following a script. If your face is saying SOS, it’s okay to simplify your routine. Skipping the morning cleanse in favor of a simple water rinse may help your barrier catch up. Above all else, tune into your skin’s responses and make gradual adjustments until you find the balance that works for you.
Final Thoughts
There isn’t a single “right” way to cleanse that applies to everyone; it’s about finding the rhythm that works for your skin type, lifestyle, and comfort level. Morning cleansing can be a nice reset to sweep away overnight oil and prep for SPF and makeup, while evening cleansing is the non-negotiable step to clear off sunscreen, makeup, and daily buildup.
That said, don’t get bogged down by rigid rules. If your skin feels tight, dry, or irritated, it might be time to scale back or switch to a gentler option. Skincare is less about following internet trends and more about paying attention to how your own skin responds. Think of it as an ongoing experiment: Your skin is the subject, and you’re the scientist in charge. You don’t need a chemistry degree to get the ratios right, but just to be clear, someone needs to have the degree. A little trial and error mixed with well-formulated formulas vetted by real chemists are typically all you need.
If you want to continue nerding out on skincare science with us, head over to our blog for a closer look at cleanser ingredients, some top surfactants you might spot, and more!
Read also:
- Finding A Gentle Cleanser For Your Face That Doesn't Compromise Its Cleansing Power
- Your Cleansing Questions Answered: Any Scientific Takeaways Here?
- The Best Cleansing Secrets Every Person With Oily Skin Should Know
Frequently Asked Questions About When To Use Facial Cleanser
Is it better to cleanse my face in the morning or at night?
Both can be helpful, but if you have to pick just one, don’t skip the evening cleanse. Morning cleansing can refresh your skin by removing overnight oil and sweat, while nighttime cleansing is key for clearing away sunscreen, makeup, and outdoor pollution.
Should I use a cleanser before or after exfoliating?
Cleanser always comes first. Starting with a clean slate helps your exfoliant work more effectively and evenly. After you cleanse and exfoliate, you can move on with the rest of your routine.
Is it okay to use facial cleanser during my shower?
That totally works! Multi-taskers unite. Cleansing in the shower can be efficient, but make sure to keep an eye on the water temperature. Extra hot water can leave skin feeling dry, so lukewarm water is the safer bet.
Do I need to use cleanser before applying treatments like serums?
A thousand times yes. Clean skin is the best foundation for active treatment absorption. Cleanse first, pat dry, then apply your serums and treatments. This order ensures those fancy actives aren’t locked out by oil, sweat, and SPF remnants.
When should I cleanse if I use sunscreen?
If you’re rocking sunscreen during the day, make sure to cleanse at night. Sunscreens are designed to stay put, so a quick water rinse isn’t enough. You’ll want a proper cleanse to fully remove them, along with the rest of the day’s debris.
How long should I wait to apply moisturizer after cleansing?
No need to set a timer. Once you’ve patted your face dry, go ahead and apply your moisturizer.