If you’ve got oily skin, you know the struggle is real: that midday shine, the clogged pores, the makeup slide. But before you declare war on your face with every mattifying product you can find, let’s take a beat. Oily skin isn’t the enemy; it just needs a smarter strategy.
The truth is, how you cleanse sets the tone for everything that follows. And with the right ingredients, techniques, and routine, you can treat your skin without stripping it or triggering even more oil. So, let’s break down the cleansing secrets that actually work for oily skin — no harsh scrubbing, no guesswork, just evidence-backed advice from the chemists.
Key Takeaways:
- Understand The Cause: Oily skin is driven by overactive sebaceous glands, but it can be managed with the right cleansing routine and smart ingredient choices.
- Choose Ingredients That Work: Look for actives like mandelic acid, salicylic acid, niacinamide, and gentle surfactants, and steer clear of cleansers that are too harsh and leave you with a tight, squeaky clean finish.
- Routine Matters: A consistent morning and evening cleansing ritual, possibly with double cleansing at night, can make a major difference in regulating excess oil, reducing pore size, and even improving skin clarity.
What’s Really Going On With Oily Skin
Oily skin starts with overactive sebaceous glands producing more sebum than your skin actually needs. Sebum, your skin’s natural oil, helps maintain hydration and protects your barrier. It’s comprised of wax, squalene, fatty acids, cholesterol, and free sterols. Sebum is an integral component in protecting your skin barrier, moisturizing skin, transporting crucial antioxidants to defend against free radical damage, and even acting as a natural antibacterial.
However, in excess, it can lead to clogged pores, uneven texture, and the classic midday shine. While genetics and hormones are the main drivers (we’re looking at you, puberty, menstrual cycles, and stress), environmental triggers and harsh skincare routines can make things worse.
Oily Skin Myths
Let’s also clear up a few myths. No, oily skin doesn’t mean your skin is dirty. And no, scrubbing your face raw won’t help reduce sebum long term. In fact, with long-term stripping and a constant imbalance in sebum, it might just push your skin to produce more oil in response. Here’s the most important one: Oily skin still needs moisture. Skipping hydration can send your skin into panic mode, making things even greasier. Understanding what’s happening beneath the surface is your first step toward building a routine that works for you.
Why Cleansing Matters So Much For Oily Skin
If oily skin is the concern, cleansing is where it all begins — and where many people go wrong. The goal isn’t to strip your skin dry. It’s to break down excess oil, remove buildup (like sunscreen and pollutants), and prep your skin for the next steps without disrupting your barrier in the process. Done right, cleansing can set the tone for the rest of your routine — removing what your skin doesn’t need while preserving skin’s important functions to maintain and look its best.
Fun fact! Maintaining this balance is one of the fundamental reasons behind formulating Blank Slate, our low-foam gel cleanser that was obsessively formulated and then tested by real users through our very own Chemists’ Crew Product Incubator. With input from dozens of participants who identify as sensitive-skin types, the formula type (gel vs. cream) was chosen by real people like you, not in the lab. After all, our users should get the final vote! Want in on the process? Join the Chemist Crew and become an Apprentice Chemist to test new products before they launch. Signing up is free (though spots are limited), and your feedback helps shape the next wave of science-backed skincare.
Choosing The Right Cleanser: Ingredients To Look For
The best cleanser for oily skin walks a fine line: gentle enough to maintain your moisture barrier, but effective enough to cut through grime and surface oil. And the magic is in the ingredients. Here are a few to prioritize when scanning the label:
- Salicylic Acid: A beta hydroxy acid (BHA) known for its ability to exfoliate inside the pore lining. It helps dissolve oil buildup and reduce congestion, making it especially useful for oily, breakout-prone skin.
- Mandelic Acid: The lesser-known alpha hydroxy acid (AHA) that has actual data showing that it can help reduce sebum production when used for 8 weeks at a 10% concentration.
- Niacinamide: When used at a 4% concentration, this multitasking ingredient helps regulate visible oiliness and supports barrier function, offering a more even-toned complexion over time.
- Glycerin: A classic humectant that draws water into the skin, helping maintain hydration post-cleanse. Even oily skin needs moisture to function properly. Glycerin helps ensure you’re not left feeling overly dry.
- Kaolin or Bentonite Clay: These naturally absorbent clays help mop up excess sebum on the skin’s surface without harshly disrupting its balance. Note that this ingredient does not need to be used nightly.
- Tea Tree Oil: Tea tree oil is one of the few home remedy ingredients with actual data that supports its antimicrobial claims. Most tea tree oils are sold neat. It’s important to dilute this to a 5-10% concentration to avoid skin irritation.
Scenarios to Avoid in Cleansers for Oily Skin
When it comes to managing oily skin, one of the most common mistakes is overwashing. While it may seem logical to cleanse frequently to remove excess oil, doing so can actually backfire. Overwashing might be a sign that your cleanser isn’t suitable for your skin type, or that other aspects of your skincare routine need adjusting. Stripping the skin too often can trigger increased oil production as your skin tries to compensate for the loss of moisture.
Another habit to avoid is chasing that "squeaky clean" feeling. While it may feel satisfying, it often indicates that your skin has been stripped of not just excess sebum but also the natural oils that help maintain a healthy skin barrier. This can lead to irritation, dehydration, and even more oiliness in the long run.
Overexfoliating is another pitfall, especially for those with oily skin. While exfoliation is beneficial for keeping pores clear and controlling oil, more isn't always better. Excessive exfoliation can disrupt the skin’s balance, causing sensitivity and inflammation, which can worsen oil production and lead to breakouts.
It’s also important to be cautious about using too many oil-absorbing products. These can be found not only in cleansers but also in makeup, sunscreen, and moisturizers. Over-relying on them can leave the skin parched and irritated, prompting it to produce even more oil as a defense mechanism.
Lastly, skipping moisturizer is a surprisingly common misstep among those with oily skin. Many fear that moisturizers will add to the grease, but the truth is, not all moisturizers are heavy or pore-clogging. If your current one feels too greasy, it simply means you haven’t found the right formulation yet. Hydration is essential for all skin types, including oily skin, to keep it balanced and healthy.
Morning vs. Evening: Why Timing Matters
Your skin's needs change from AM to PM, especially if you're dealing with excess oil. Dialing in your routine for each time of day makes a difference in keeping your skin happy.
Your Morning Routine: A Gentle Reset
Waking up with oily skin doesn’t mean you need to break out the heavy-duty cleansers. In the morning, your goal is simple: remove overnight sweat and excess sebum without compromising your skin barrier. Reach for a gentle, non-stripping cleanser like our own Blank Slate, which has a skin-friendly low pH (~5.8) and doesn’t leave skin with that stripped feeling. Use 1-2 pumps as your first step, apply to wet skin, and massage gently in circular motions for about 30 seconds. Rinse well with lukewarm water. Then pat dry with a clean towel before layering on your hydrators, sunscreen, and whatever else your skin needs to face the day.
Your Evening Routine: Clean Slate, Literally
At night, cleansing plays the clean-up crew for everything your skin has been through: pollution, sunscreen, sweat, makeup, you name it. This is where double cleansing can be helpful—yes, even for oily skin. While it’s not essential for everyone, it’s a useful option if you wear long-wear makeup or heavy sunscreen. The idea is simple: oil dissolves oil. Using an oil-based cleanser, balm, or makeup remover as your first step can effectively break down product residue that may otherwise linger. Gently massage it in for about a minute, then rinse with lukewarm water before following with your regular cleanser.
Next, go in with your water-based cleanser. This picks up the slack and makes sure there’s no film left behind. Look for a well-balanced formula (like our own Blank Slate cleanser) that finishes the job while still leaving skin hydrated and without that squeaky clean tightness. Now your skin is all prepped and ready for the rest of your skincare goodness.
Technique Matters More Than You Think
Proper technique goes a long way. For cleansing oils and balms, massage onto dry skin. These cleansers should glide well on skin and doesn’t unnecessarily pull or tug on skin. For water-based cleansers like Blank Slate, massage your cleanser into damp skin for a full 30 seconds — this gives the surfactants time to do their job without needing to overdo it on product or pressure. Rinse thoroughly and follow with a lightweight, oil-free moisturizer like Aquafix Hydrating Water Gel to lock in hydration without the weight.
Final Thoughts
Oily skin doesn’t have to feel like an uphill battle, especially when your cleansing routine is doing the heavy lifting. With the right technique and ingredients, a gentle yet effective cleanser like Blank Slate can help you clear away excess oil, daily grime, and leftover sunscreen without throwing your barrier out of balance. Add in additional strategies like double cleansing for extra help when needed anda fine-tuned exfoliant plan, and you’re giving your skin the foundation it needs to manage that extra shine, stay clean, calm, and comfortable.
Read also:
- Tretinoin vs. Retinol - Which One Should You Use?
- How To Best Use Cleansers - The Chemists' Double Cleansing Guide
- PDRN Skincare: Hype vs. Reality
Frequently Asked Questions About Cleanser For Oily Skin
How often should you cleanse oily skin?
If your skin feels like a Slip ‘N Slide by midday, twice-daily cleansing is your sweet spot. Cleansing in the morning helps remove overnight sweat and oil, while your evening cleanse clears out the day’s buildup — think sunscreen, makeup, and pollutants. But don’t overdo it. Cleansing more than twice a day can strip your barrier and actually trigger more oil production. Stick to a solid morning and night routine and let a gentle, low-pH cleanser like Blank Slate do the heavy lifting.
How does the menstrual cycle impact oily skin cleansing routines?
Hormonal fluctuations around your cycle — especially the days leading up to your period — can spike oil production and congestion. It doesn’t mean you need to overhaul your entire routine, but this is a good time to pay attention to your skin’s behavior. Stick with your usual twice-a-day cleanse, and consider adding a gentle exfoliation (like our Specialist) once or twice a week to help keep your skin feeling refreshed without over-stripping.
Is it necessary to use a toner after cleansing oily skin?
Toners are definitely not a must, but remember that toners are just watery formulas that contain mostly “water stuff”. Toners fall into the same category as hydrating serums and gels, and these types of formulas can help hydrate oily skin without the added weight of a traditional moisturizer. Look for toners that contain hydrators like glycerin, panthenol, betaine, and hyaluronic acid. Bonus if they contain soothers (like our very own Aquafix).
Should you use hot, cold, or lukewarm water to cleanse oily skin?
We would recommend the temperature range between mildly warm and cold. Basically, avoid using hot water, which can be harsh and disruptive to the skin barrier and contribute to dry skin. (We know there are a few of you who love a boiling hot shower.)
Should I look for a “non-comedogenic” cleanser?
Without diving into a can of worms on claims testing, we find the “non-comedogenic” to not be the most helpful indicator of a product’s actual comedogenicity. We recommend patch testing all new products before use.
What's the best way to remove makeup if you have oily skin?
For long-wear makeup, consider double cleansing. These high pigment formulas are meant to stay on even against sweat. Start with an oil-based cleanser or balm to help breakdown makeup and then follow with your daily cleanser. If you’re considering our Blank Slate gel cleanser, this cleanser can serve as a one step cleanse to remove simple makeup and sunscreen.
