When you first foray into the world of chemical exfoliation, two ingredients are bound to come up almost immediately: salicylic acid and glycolic acid. Salicylic acid is a BHA (beta hydroxy acid) often associated with acne, clearing skin congestion. On the other hand, glycolic acid is an AHA (alpha hydroxy acid) that’s associated with smoother, brighter skin texture. So how do you know which one is right for your skin? Is one better than the other? Should you use one more both in your routine? Let’s break it down.
What is Salicylic Acid?
Salicylic acid is BHA (beta-hydroxy acid) that is oil-soluble. This oil affinity is what helps salicylic acid get deep in your pores to clear out any built-up dead cells. This is why salicylic acid is particularly effective for those with oily, congestion, and acne-prone skin.
Because of this targeted efficacy, salicylic acid is actually considered an OTC drug for acne. What this means is that there are more regulations around labeling, testing, and use percentage. This is why you’ll find most salicylic acid treatment products on the market to fall between 0.5% to 2%.
You could get salicylic acid as a chemical peel, usually from around 15% up to 30%. These should only be done in a dermatologist's office or a qualified medspa. At such a potent dosage, without professional monitoring, you can do more damage than good to your skin!
What is Glycolic Acid?
Glycolic acid, on the other hand, is an AHA (alpha-hydroxy acid) that is highly water-soluble. In the AHA family (glycolic, lactic, mandelic, malic, and tartaric acid), glycolic acid has the smallest molecular weight and therefore the highest level of efficacy. It’s primarily a chemical exfoliant that works by dissolving the protein complexes that essentially glue dead cells together, helping these excessive dead cells shed. This can help smooth out rough skin texture immediately. And with consistent, long-term use, glycolic acid can even diminish the look of hyperpigmentation and fine lines.
Glycolic use level can be a source of confusion for many people. You can find it at negligibly low levels all the way up to 30%. For home use, we’d typically recommend targeting 5% to 10% for daily use and 20%+ as a once-a-week home peel.
Just like salicylic acid, you can also find glycolic acid as an in-office chemical peel from 30% all the way up to 70%. At this level, we definitely wouldn’t recommend using it yourself at home with no professional guidance.
Is Salicylic Acid or Glycolic Acid Better?
You might be wondering if one is better than the other. The choice between salicylic acid and glycolic acid really comes down to your skin type, skin quirks, skin concerns you’re trying to target.
For those with oily, acne-prone skin, and blackheads, salicylic acid is the no-brainer here. On the other hand, glycolic acid is the better choice for those looking to smooth out rough skin texture and tackle signs of aging.
Both glycolic acid and salicylic acid can cause irritation, dryness, and redness. If you’re new to AHAs and BHA, definitely start on the lower end of our recommended percentage range. If you’re having trouble with glycolic acid, we’d recommend trying AHA lactic acid or PHA gluconolactone instead. If you’re having issues with salicylic acid, we would recommend instead to trial mandelic acid.
You might be wondering, “well I have both blackheads and hyperpigmentation, do I really have to choose one over the other?” You can absolutely have both glycolic acid and salicylic acid in your routine with a few tips!
A Chemists’ Guide to Incorporating Both Acids in Your Routine
AHAs and BHA can work really well together to tackle your skin concern from different angles, and you can absolutely have both in your routine. Here are some tips to consider:
- Consider a saliyclic acid face wash: acne face washes with salicylic acid such as Cerave’s Renewing SA Cleanser or the Inkey Lists’ Salicylic Acid Cleanser are a great way to have some salicylic acid in your routine that is mroe gentle than say a concentrated topical spot treatment. You can use these cleansers along with a glycolic acid exfoliating toner.
- Separate daily vs. weekly: if you use a topical salicylic acid such as say the classic Paula’s Choice 2% BHA Toner, you can skip the toner one night and use a once a week glycolic acid home peel instead. It’s a grat way to boost the smoothing, and brightening power of your routine!
- Consider a product that combines both AHA and BHA to simplify things: if you’re a simple soul (like us!) who are tired of having a gazillion steps in your routine, you can also simply opt for a product that combines AHAs and BHA. For example, La Roche Posay’s Effaclar Salicyic Acid Serum combines glycolic acid and salicylic acid in one product. We opted to combine a different AHA mandelic acid along with salicylic acid in our Specialist Treatment.
- Soothe and Hydrate: last but not least, don’t forget to love your skin barrier! One of the most common side effects to over-exfoliating is redness, irritation, and dryness. Soothing and hydrating go a long way here.
Key Takeaways
Both salicylic acid and glycolic acid are important actives in skincare. If you’re dealing with acne, blackheads, or oily skin, salicylic acid is a must-have in your routine. If your core concerns are aging, skin dullness, or hyperpigmentation, glycolic acid offers more upside. But most of us deal with a combination of any of the above skin issues. The reality is – most of us can take advantage of having both in our routines as long as skin irritation is managed carefully.
Happy exfoliating!
