Is Retinol An Exfoliant? Understanding Its Role In Skincare

Key Takeaways:

• Retinol Is Not An Exfoliant: Retinol isn’t a traditional exfoliant; it’s intended to trigger a receptor response to  promotes skin renewal and stimulates collagen production.
• Deeper-Level Benefits: While retinol helps increase cell turnover and smooth skin texture, it works deeper than surface exfoliants and can be paired with them for more comprehensive results.
• Smart Onboarding: Gradual introduction, consistent hydration, and daily sun protection are essential to getting the most out of retinol while keeping irritation in check.

 

Retinol gets a lot of credit for smoothing skin, fading dark spots, and tackling fine lines — but is it technically an exfoliant? It’s a common assumption, especially since retinol can cause flaking or peeling in the early stages of use. But here’s the thing: retinol isn’t actually exfoliating your skin. At least not in the way traditional chemical exfoliants like glycolic acid or lactic acid do.

In this post, we’ll clear up the confusion and break down how retinol really works, why it’s often mistaken for an exfoliant, and how it can (and should) coexist with exfoliants in your routine. Let’s set the record straight with a little help from the chemists.

 

 

Retinol vs. Exfoliants: What's the Difference?

Retinol and exfoliants are often lumped into the same “skin-smoothers” category. While they can both help you get that glow, they work in very different ways. Understanding those differences is key to building a smart, flake-free routine.

Retinol: A Skin Renewal Catalyst

Retinol isn’t an exfoliant in the traditional sense. It’s a vitamin A derivative that  Converts into retinoic acid to interact directly with your skin’s retinoic acid receptors. These receptors are responsible for kickstarting processes that support a healthy skin barrier and regulate collagen production to promote a youthful skin structure.

The key thing to note? Similar to exfoliation, retinol does increase cell turnover but differs in mechanism and rate. All that mumbo jumbo to say that both impact cell turnover in different ways. Since retinol can leave some skin types feeling a tad dry, it’s important to nourish your skin by applying a hydrating moisturizer before and/or after your retinol. With a little TLC, you can kick that dryness to the curb!

Most of the initial “retinization” side effects can be managed by using the right concentration with the right formulation prowess, like our own Double Play Retinol Face & Eye Treatment. To create a retinol experience with a minimal shedding experience that could be safe enough for the eye area and still bring those famous retinol results, we stabilized an encapsulated 0.3% retinol and paired it with barrier-supporting niacinamide and soothing extractsIt's gentle enough for retinol newbies but potent enough to stay in your routine for the long haul.

Chemical Exfoliants: Surface-Scrubbing Powerhouses

Chemical exfoliants, on the other hand, work on the surface of the skin. Ingredients like glycolic acid (an AHA) and lactic acid break down the glue that holds dead skin cells together, helping to shed dull, rough layers and reveal brighter, smoother skin underneath.

Take Gold Standard Exfoliation Treatment, for example. It’s our most potent chemical exfoliator, formulated with 30% glycolic acid and 5% tranexamic acid. This combo makes it a go-to for those dealing with stubborn texture or hyperpigmentation. Unlike retinol, the results are more immediate, 

If your skin has a tendency to freak out at the mere mention of acids, our Baby Steps Gentle Exfoliation Treatment might be more your speed. This formula combines 30% PHA gluconolactone and 15% lactic acid to deliver all the glow with none of the drama. Designed for dry, sensitive, or acid-shy skin types, it works as either a gentle nightly booster (just mix a drop into your serum or moisturizer) or a rinse-off mask for a little weekly reset. It’s the perfect intro to exfoliants without risking a full-blown skin meltdown — because exfoliation shouldn’t feel like a gamble.

Can You Use Both Together?

You can technically use both of them together, but strategically. Because they work in different ways, retinol and exfoliants can complement each other. Retinol improves skin function from the inside out, while exfoliants help clear the surface so everything functions smoothly. But combining them takes finesse. We don’t recommend stacking a high-strength product like Gold Standard with Double Play on the first night… unless your skin barrier is made of steel. If you're considering both, we recommend onboarding retinol first. Once the skin has acclimated to retinol, add in your exfoliator just once a week. For an even more gentle AHA addition, consider adding in Baby Steps to maximize the benefits of both categories with minimal fuss.  At the end of the day, retinol and exfoliants each bring something unique to the table, and together, they can make an amazing team. Just make sure you’re introducing them with care and listening to what your skin is telling you along the way.

Can Retinol Replace Your Exfoliator?

Short answer: Not really. Longer answer: Retinol and exfoliants each play special roles in your routine, and in the process of cell turnover. Your skin will thank you for not making them compete.

Different Tools, Different Jobs

Retinol and chemical exfoliants both help improve texture, clarity, and tone, but they work on different layers of your skin. Retinol works under the surface, speeding up skin cell turnover and stimulating collagen production, improving the long-term structure and function of youthful skin. Retinol has been clinically proven to reduce wrinkles and hyperpigmentation, while only the specific AHA, glycolic acid, shares this benefit if used at higher concentration levels. Think retinol benefits as skin’s age prevention maintenance from the inside out.

Exfoliants like glycolic acid, lactic acid, and PHAs work more immediately at the surface level. They help shed dead skin cells, smooth rough patches, and keep pores clear. This gives you that instant radiance and baby-soft smoothness that retinol can’t quite replicate on its own.

Why You Probably Need Both

If you ditch exfoliants in favor of retinol alone, you might miss out on the benefits of keeping that top layer of skin in check — especially if you’re dealing with dullness, uneven tone, or flaky buildup. On the flip side, relying on exfoliants without incorporating retinol means you're missing the long game: collagen support, wrinkle reduction, hyperpigmentation reduction,, and improved skin health over time. Used together, they make a dynamic duo. Just don’t pile them on all at once — rotate usage, buffer with moisturizers, and adjust based on your skin’s tolerance.

Bottom line: retinol isn’t a replacement for exfoliation; they’re teammates. It takes a village of actives to maintain and preserve skin’s apperance. When used strategically, both can help each other (and your skin) shine.

Sample Skincare Routine

Want to use both retinol and exfoliants without overwhelming your skin barrier? Totally doable! As long as you keep things consistent and well-paced, your skin should be able to tolerate it. Here, we’re going to follow our Skincare Recipe to target the first signs of aging:

Morning Routine

1. Cleanse: Start with a Blank Slate to gently wash away any overnight buildup without stripping your skin.
2. Hydrate: Apply Aquafix for a hit of hydrating humectants and a boost of soothers. This is your skin’s prep step before layering on the actives.
3. Brighten: Follow up with your go-to Vitamin C Serum to help brighten and protect skin from environmental stressors.
4. Moisturize: Lock it all in with good ol’ Mr. Reliable, our no-fuss moisturizer that plays nice with actives and sunscreen.
5. Protect: Finish strong with your favorite SPF — because all this hard work deserves a shield from environmental factors.

Evening Routine

1. Cleanse: Hit up Blank Slate again to wash off the day, including any stubborn sunscreen or makeup residue.
2. Hydrate: Add a layer of Aquafix to soothe and prime your skin for retinol.
3. Treat: Apply Double Play to the full face. All you need is a tiny, pea-sized drop; no need to go all-out! With 0.3% encapsulated retinol and 2% peptides, it’s gentle enough to use on your under eyes — say buh-bye to those tiny jars of eye cream forever.
4. Moisturize: Seal it in with Mr. Reliable to reinforce your skin barrier overnight.

Once-a-Week Treatment

After cleansing, apply a thin, even layer of Baby Steps to dry skin — no mixing or layering is needed here. Let it sit for 10 minutes while you scroll socials, bullet journal, or take up your next crochet project. Once time’s up, rinse thoroughly with lukewarm water and follow your usual hydrating steps (Aquafix and Mr. Reliable, we’re talking about you). When you exfoliate, it’s a good idea to skip the Double Play for that night.

This 30% PHA + 15% lactic acid combo is gentle enough for sensitive skin and skincare beginners but still delivers noticeable results. Since you’re only using it once a week, this product will last you a while — making it a low-commitment, high-reward step in your routine.

 

 

Conclusion

So, is retinol an exfoliant? The answer is a bit more nuanced than a simple yes or no. While yes retinol does aid in cell turnover like an exfoliant, don't let that fool you — it’s a powerhouse ingredient that plays a multifaceted role in any effective skincare routine.

But when it comes to retinol vs. exfoliants, it’s not about choosing one over the other. Retinol helps your skin function better from the inside out, while exfoliants essentially smooth and refine from the outside in. With the proper on board they’re a skincare power couple. Just a little Chemist Confessions education, a smart routine building, and a little barrier support is all it takes to build a well balanced, set-it-and-forget-it retinol & exfoliating routine.

Read also:

• Tretinoin vs. Retinol - Which One Should You Use?
• Can You Use Glycolic Acid With Retinol?
• Retinol: The Tried-And-True Way To Putting Off Botox

Frequently Asked Questions About Whether Retinol Is An Exfoliant

What concentration of retinol is effective?

For most people, 0.1% to 1% is the sweet spot for retinol effectiveness. But more isn’t always better, especially if your skin is new to actives. We call 0.3% encapsulated retinol (like the one in Double Play) a timeless choice because it’s beginner-friendly but still effective enough to stick with long-term. To onboard retinol, apply the product every other day for ~2 weeks to allow the skin to acclimate. Start low, go slow, and let your skin acclimate before chasing higher percentages.

Should you use retinol during the day or night?

Nighttime is the classic move. That said, studies have shown that daytime use with SPF is totally fine, too. We prefer nighttime to minimize the number of layers during the AM routine with SPF. However, keep it simple and stick to whichever one works best for your lifestyle.

Can retinol help with wrinkles?

Yup, that’s kind of its thing. Retinol helps boost collagen production and speeds up skin cell turnover, which, over time, can help reduce the appearance of fine lines, wrinkles, and even dark spots. Just don’t expect overnight magic. It’s a long-game ingredient, not a quick fix.

How long does it take to see results from retinol?

On average, you’ll start seeing noticeable changes around 8 to 12 weeks. Subtle improvements (like smoother texture or a bit of brightness) can show up as early as 4 to 6 weeks. Our own Double Play Retinol showed a reduction in dark circles, crows feet, and hyperpigmentation in 6 weeks. Just stay consistent! Retinol rewards routine, not spontaneity.

Can retinol be used for the eye area?

Yes. Our Double Play formula was even tested specifically for the eye area and sensitive zones, so it’s a solid pick, even if your skin’s a little fussy.

Can all skin types use retinol?

Most skin types can tolerate retinol, but how you use it matters. If you’re sensitive, take it slow. Start with just 0.1-0.3% retinol every other day and monitor how the skin responds. Gradually increase frequency as skin builds up its retinol tolerance. 

What should you avoid when using retinol?

Retinol likes the spotlight. When you’re first starting out, avoid pairing it with other strong actives like benzoyl peroxide or high concentrations of exfoliants. Most importantly? Don’t skip sunscreen! Remember, retinol brings up healthy, bright, new layers of skin that will be more vulnerable to UV, so SPF in the morning is non-negotiable. Soothing serums and barrier care moisturizers are also your best friends during the initial adjustment phase.

References:

1. Mambwe, B., Mellody, K. T., Kiss, O., O'Connor, C., Bell, M., Watson, R. E., & Langton, A. K. (2025). Cosmetic retinoid use in photoaged skin: A review of the compounds, their use and mechanisms of action. International Journal of Cosmetic Science, 47(1), 45-57.
2. Wójcik, A., Bartnicka, E., Namieciński, P., & Rotsztejn, H. (2015). Influence of the complex of retinol-vitamin C on skin surface lipids. Journal of cosmetic dermatology, 14(2).
3. Bertin, C., Zunino, H., Lanctin, M., Stamatas, G. N., Camel, E., Robert, C., & Issachar, N. (2008). Combined retinol–lactose–glycolic acid effects on photoaged skin: a double‐blind placebo‐controlled study. International journal of cosmetic science, 30(3), 175-182.
4. Bellemère, G., Stamatas, G. N., Bruère, V., Bertin, C., Issachar, N., & Oddos, T. (2009). Antiaging action of retinol: from molecular to clinical. Skin pharmacology and physiology, 22(4), 200-209.