New skincare science is as alluring as it is mysterious. It can often be hard to distinguish between hype and science. But worry not! Let the chemists dissect everything for you. Today, we’re tackling PDRNv—van ingredient that’s been making waves in the beauty world. But what exactly is PDRN, and does it deserve a spot in your routine? Let’s break it down.
What is PDRN?
PDRN, or polydeoxyribonucleotide, are simply DNA fragments ranging from 50 to 1500 kDa. The concept of using PDRN for therapeutic purposes came from PDRN derived from human placenta. Most of the PDRN you seen on the market now is primarily sourced from salmon sperm due to its similarity to human DNA. Other than its… uhh… unique origins, there’s a lot of mystery around just what PDRN does for you.
The Science Behind PDRN
The primary mechanism of action is through the “A2A adenosine pathway”, which is linked to regulating inflammation, cell proliferation, and collagen production. . In fact, PDRN was first tested for healing properties on wounds and lesions One key study from Italy ested its effectiveness on diabetic foot ulcers, showing notable improvement in healing rates. The study found that 37.3% of the PDRN-treated group fully healed within eight weeks, compared to just 18.9% in the placebo group. Notably, this study was conducted by injecting PDRN directly into ulcer sites daily. How does this then translate into PDRN skincare benefits?
PDRN in Skincare: Hype vs. Reality
Given its therapeutic background showing early promises in skin healing, unsurprisingly, PDRN has made its way into skincare products with a wild range of claims. PDRN product cames can range from improved skin hydration to anti-aging benefits. Notably, PDRN first caught waves as an in-office treatment option to be coupled with microneedling. But does that translate to topical skincare?
In the topical skincare realm, two key studies stand out:
-
A 2004 study on skin graft healing showed that PDRN-treated wounds epithelialized faster (12.5 days vs. 24.45 days in the control group) and had fewer infections.
-
A singular case study involving a 43-year-old male with atrophic acne scars suggested that PDRN might aid in skin healing when combined with treatments like microneedling and chemical peels.
Ta-da! That’s pretty much it for topical studies - which clearly pales in comparison with classic skincare actives like say retinol and AHAs. Moreover, it’s important to note that the bulk of PDRN research still focuses on salmon-derived PDRN. However, newer sources, like ginseng-derived PDRN, are emerging as well, adding more confusion to an already murky field. Since salmon sperm DNA was originally identified due to similarities to human DNA, it’s not straightforward to conclude that “other PDRN should do the trick!” too. Of all the newer plant-based PDRN skincare you might encounter now or in the near future, ginseng is one of the most promising one, with data validating that it can interact with the same A2A receptors that salmon PDRN does.
Should You Try PDRN Skincare?
Based on available data, it’s hard for us to say that this is a must have in your skincare routine. However, if you’re still curious to try, consider these chemists’ top tips:
When considering PDRN skincare, the biggest factor is sourcing. Salmon PDRN has the highest level of evidence, followed by ginseng, and… that’s the end of our recommendations. The other thing to consider is just what benefits are you looking for? Most of the data, even in the therapeutics realm, is concentrated in general skin health and skin healing. This means that it could be an interesting product to try for those with compromised skin. If you’re looking for anti-aging or brightening benefits, the data is just not quite there especially as a topical ingredient.
At the end of the day, PDRN in skincare is more of a “skincare for fun” rather than a game-changer. We ourselves tested out the top two PDRN serums in kbeauty right now: Medicube PDRN Pink Peptide Serum vs. VT PDRN 100 Essence in a product head-to-head. Check out our thoughts on the products here.
What are your thoughts on PDRN skincare? Would you give it a shot?
Watch the Chemist Confessions Podcast PDRN Episode
References
Khan, A., Wang, G., Zhou, F., Gong, L., Zhang, J., Qi, L., & Cui, H. (2022). Polydeoxyribonucleotide: a promising skin anti-aging agent. Chinese Journal of Plastic and Reconstructive Surgery, 4(4), 187-193.
Squadrito, F., Bitto, A., Altavilla, D., Arcoraci, V., De Caridi, G., De Feo, M. E., ... & Cucinotta, D. (2014). The effect of PDRN, an adenosine receptor A2A agonist, on the healing of chronic diabetic foot ulcers: results of a clinical trial. J Clin Endocrinol Metab, 99(5), E746-E753.
Shin SM, Baek EJ, Kim KH, Kim KJ, Park EJ. Polydeoxyribonucleotide exerts opposing effects on ERK activity in human skin keratinocytes and fibroblasts. Mol Med Rep. 2023 Aug;28(2):148. doi: 10.3892/mmr.2023.13035. Epub 2023 Jun 23. PMID: 37350391; PMCID: PMC10308489.
Valdatta, L., Thione, A., Mortarino, C., Buoro, M., & Tuinder, S. (2004). Evaluation of the efficacy of polydeoxyribonucleotides in the healing process of autologous skin graft donor sites: a pilot study. Current Medical Research and Opinion, 20(3), 403–408. https://doi.org/10.1185/030079904125003116
