Blackheads is a persistent skincare for many. It doesn’t matter your skin type, people from the driest of dry skin to the most oily can all be frustrated by pesky blackheads at any time. The skincare market is not short of miracle blackhead treatments - from pore strips, serums, to fancy devices. So in this blog post, let’s dive into just what causes blackheads, key skincare ingredients that can effectively clear blackheads fast, routines to prevent them from popping back up again.
What are Blackheads
Blackheads, or open comedones, are essentially clogged pores that have turned a dark color. They almost look like black pepper flakes and most frequently appear on your nose, but can also occur on your chin, forehead, cheeks, and even body. The clogs can be caused by excessive dead skin cells, excess sebum, dirt/grime accumulation. Blackheads are exposed to the elements, which leads to oxidation and voila! The color turns black. A common misconception is that the black color is because of dirt that gets caught in the pores, this is inaccurate.
Effective Ingredients to Tackle Blackheads Quickly
The root cause of blackheads is clogged pores. So it’s not surprising that manyingredients that work well on acne also work well for blackheads. The key are are ingredients that can soften the pore clog, penetrate into your pores to clear out the buildup, and fend off inflammation that might make everything worse. Here are some key ingredients to keep in your arsenal in case of a blackheas flare up:
-
Salicylic Acid (BHA): Trusty BHA salicylic acid can penetrate deep into the pores to clear out the oil and dead skin cells that are clogging your pores. Bonus point! Salicylic acid also has anti-bacterial and anti-inflammatory properties that can prevent blackheads from coming back.
-
Mandelic Acid: this is the AHA cousin of salicylic acid with very similar molecular structures. It has AHA chemical exfoliating benefits while sharing the lightly oil-soluble nature of BHA, making this a no-brainer to pair with your salicylic acid to further exfoliation benefits. This is why we combine 18% salicylic acid with 2% salicylic acid in our Specialist treatment.
-
Benzoyl Peroxide: another classic acne ingredient that can target acne-causing bacteria while reducing inflammation. This is also a great ingredient to use along with your salicylic acid
-
Clay: clays like kaolin or bentonite can help absorb excess oil and impurities from the skin. While clay alone wouldn’t dislodge stubborn blackheads, they can help the other actives work that much better.
Best Way to Clear Up Blackheads FAST
When it comes to nipping out blackheads quickly, having the right products and ingredients in your arsenal is just half the battle. How you use them really matters too. Using your products correctly can be the difference between banishing your blackheads within days or staring at it in frustration for weeks on end. In case of a patch of blackheads, follow these 3 steps in your routine to help clear up your blackheads ASAP:
-
Deep cleanse: while we don’t think you have to double cleanse on a daily basis, it’s definitely the way to go when you have active blackheads you’re trying to banish. Start with an oil or balm cleanser. Blackheads are oil-based in nature, so following the principle of like-dissolves-like, a balm or oil cleanser can help soften and dissolve a particularly stubborn sebum plug. Pro tip! Take your time to really massage the oil cleanser in the affected area for the best results. Finish up your cleansing routine with a regular gel or cream cleanser. Bonus! A cleanser with benzoyl peroxide like the PanOxyl cleanser is a good option here.
-
Clay Mask: most people would jump straight to their active treatments right after cleansing, but a secret optional stop here is to use a clay mask. This can help further draw out any excess sebum or impurities that your cleansing step didn’t quite cover. It can also help make your actives penetrate better.
-
AHA/BHA Exfoliation Spot Treat: after the clay mask, your blackheads-afflicted area is now ready for actives. A combination of AHA/BHA spot treatment is the best way to help clear out the rest of your blackheads. Chemist Confessions’ very own Specialist features a combination of 18% mandelic acid with 2% salicylic acid formulated specifically for spot treating in this scenario. However, this actives load is on the high side and we wouldn’t recommend using it as a leave-on direct spot treatment more than two days in a row. If your skin is sensitive, using a BHA salicylic acid only product like the classic Paula’s Choice Skin Perfecting Toner is a good, gentle option as well.
What about Pore Strips and Vacuum Extractors?
Of course, given how stubborn blackheads are, there are a lot of gadgets like pore strips and home-use extractors aimed to target them very specifically. These can be somewhat helpful - but we feel lukewarm about recommending them.
Vacuum extractors and pore extractors can be useful especially after a thorough cleanse. However, proceed with caution as these devices can damage skin. A damaged skin barrier is just not worth it!
Pore strips can be incredibly satisfying to use. But! They’re not actually very effective at “pulling out” blackheads. They can remove some of the surface-level dirt and sebaceous filaments, but at the end of the day, porestrips cannot address the root cause of blackheads. These are a fun to use once a blue moon type of product. If you use them too frequently ,however, they may do more to damage your skin barrier than actually removing blackheads effectively.
If you have some severely clogged pores that topical products can’t address thoroughly, the best course of action is actually to go to a trusty aesthetician who can help with a through extraction tailored to your skin’s needs.
Blackheads Prevention Skincare Routine
If you’re prone to blackheads, it can be one of the most frustrating recurring skin issues that pop up time and time again for seemingly no reason. This is true for even those with dry skin! If you’re prone to random blackheads, prevention is key here. While following our 3-step routine above can help clear up your blackheads fast, it just makes life easier if you have a solid skincare routine that aims to minimize the frequency and severity of blackheads. Here are some top chemists’ tips to consider in your routine:
-
Cleanse: a thorough cleanse without stripping or irritating your skin is essential here. If you have dry skin, a gentle cleanser like Blank Slate Gel is the perfect daily cleanser. If you have oily, acne-prone skin, you might consider using a cleanser that contains salicylic acid or benzoyl peroxide. Pro-tip! Lather time matters. A 2-second rub-and-rinse is just not going to cut it. Give your face a thorough massage before rinsing off can make a big difference!
-
Chemical Exfoliants: incorporating AHAs or BHA into your routine regularly can keep skin cell turnover healthy and prevent clogs from happening. Checkout our dedicated AHA blog to see the right AHA, concentration, and frequency of use you should be using.
-
Physical Exfoliants: a gentle physical exfoliant can also help skin clear. The key here is to use gentle options in moderation. Checkout our exfoliation guide for more information.
-
Retinoids: if you have acne-prone skin, then you’re no stranger to retinoids. They can effective treat acne breakouts and in the same token prevent blackheads development. If you’re new to retinoids and looking for the best starting point for blackheads or acne in particular, OTC adapalene is a great place to start.
-
Soothe & Moisturize: last but not least, a happy skin barrier is simply the best prevention of skin issues
Blackheads Misconceptions, Myths, and Mistakes
Despite being a common skin issue, there is quite a bit of misinformation out there about blackheads. Here are the ones we hear about most often…
-
“Scrubbing harder removes blackheads faster”: just … no. Aggressive skin scrubbing doesn’t accomplish much other than damaging your skin barrier
-
“Blackheads will go away on their own”: blackheads are VERY stubborn if left unattended! This can lead to enlarged pores and inflammation over time
-
“Blackheads mean your skin is dirty”: though insufficient cleansing can definitely lead to blackheads, blackheads can happen to even those with the most meticulous skin cleansing routines. They’re also black in color due to oxidation and not because of dirt
Key Takeaways
Blackhead removal doesn’t require borderline violent scrubbing or gimmicky solutions. If you’re working on actively banishing blackheads, follow our oil cleanse - clay mask - AHA/BHA spot treatment routine see results quickly. If you’re prone to developing blackheads, a consistent routine with thorough cleansing and regular exfoliation can help minimize the frequency of blackheads popping up in the least opportune times.
